Hace un par de semanas, me comentaron que Picasso parece ser (estas cosas hay que tomarlas como ideas y no como cosas que van a pasar seguro) que dentro de la línea de camuflaje que tiene estaba mirando unos tonos como para "el estrecho". De hecho allí encima de la mesa había unos trozos de plancha de neopreno pintados de varios colores distintos.
Por otro lado también es un rumor que OMER sin contrastar es posible que saque una botellita de pintura para que cada uno se pinte el traje como lo apetezca, dentro de lo disponible....
El caso es que una información importante es que los neoprenos que se usan para hacer los trajes chicle suelen ir "siliconados" (con lo que quiera decir exactamente este concepto) por fuera, salvo alguno. Por ejemplo parece ser que el Yamamoto 45 quizás no venga siliconado.
El caso es que pintar encima de la silicona o algo que contenga silicona es una tarea muy compleja pero que parece que se ha conseguido sin problemas por varias casas comerciales y cuya solución puede reducirse a contar con la pintura adecuada.
Metiendo "how to paint silicone" o "silicone paint" en el Google aparecen cosas sobre gente que pinta la silicona (mascaras de caras y cosas para efectos especiales) y consiguen hacerlo.....
Podía ser un proyecto para un fin de semana de mala mar averiguar cómo demonios pintar la silicona???
Parece ser que se puede pintar perfectamente con silicona. O sea, coges silicona de la que viene en tubo (de una cierta marca que es capaz de pegar bien) la rebajas con un disolvente adecuado para que este liquida y pintable (xileno -ojo con esta sustancia-) y la tintas ... y con eso pintas el traje ... íƒÆ’í¢â‚¬Å¡íƒâ€š¿Cómo lo veis?
En fín , os añado algo de info de lo que he leido estos días :
http://www.themonsterlab.com/vance-airbrush.htmlHOW TO PAINT
SLIP LATEX: Clean well with a degreaser like hexane. Paint with rubber cement paints or lay down a PAX base and finish with acrylics.
FOAM LATEX: Clean well with an alcohol/water mix. You can wash foam latex, squeeze the water out and let it dry. Paint with rubber cement paints or lay down a PAX base and finish with acrylics. Or you can paint appliances with rubber mask grease paints (makeup).
GELATINE: Wipe lightly with isopropyl alcohol. Paint with acrylics thinned with water and alcohol.
SILICONE: Clean well with a degreaser (hexane) and then clean well again with acetone. This removes first any greases that may act as a barrier coat and then the acetone strips out a little of the silicone from the rubber which makes your paint stick better.You can paint silicone with acrylics. Thin them with a bit of water and mostly alcohol. Once you start painting DO NOT touch the surface. The acrylic paint is just sitting on top and will wipe off quite easily. You need to seal the whole thing with silicone to protect it. You can thin down 100% silicone caulking with different solvents. Some people use methylene chloride. This is the most dangerous chemical in an fx shop. Pure cancer! Some use lacque thinner or xylene or D-Limonene. I personally doníƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¾í‚¢t like this method of painting silicone as itíƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¾í‚¢s not very durable.
I prefer to paint with silicone. Thin down silicone caulking (I use xylene). You can tint it with oil paints. How thin you make the silicone is, again, an experience thing. YouíƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¾í‚¢ll just have to try it and see what works for you, but it will be quite thin. A friend of mine uses the silicone caulking used as an adhesive for glass, etc. He thins it with lacquer thinner. This works great he says. Makes sense as it is a type of glue already and is made to stick to anything. Next time I paint silicone IíƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¾í‚¢m going to try this method.PLASTICS (like styrene): Plastics can be very difficult to paint. You need a good primer. Two good primers are a vinyl etch primer and liquid polypropylene (this is used to prime plastic car body parts for painting). Prime the plastic with either one of these and you can then paint it using acrylics. You may need to add a light layer of the polypropylene as a top coat to help keep the acrylic from scratching easily.
FIBERGLASS: Clean well. If you use acetone be careful as it can damage polyesther resin. Use a suitable primer (vinyl etch, a metal primer, etc) then paint with acrylics.
Re: Painting Silicone and vinyl
From: Matthew
Date: 17 Sep 2005
Time: 23:04:31 -0400
Remote Name: 69.234.189.130
Comments
Vinyl I don't know about but you could probably call BJB for info on that @ (714)734-8450. Silicone -
Nothing stick to silicone but silicone, therefore it must be painted with caulking silicone (Available from Circle K @(909)695-1955) thinned with Naptha (A very hazardous chemical which must be used in a well ventilated area).
Painting Silicone Caulk
I just wanted to thank you for the great web site and maybe give you a tip:
I noticed a posting about the problem of painting silicone caulk. I have been a painter and handyman for 20+ years and have run into this problem many times. I have found a good alternative to digging the nasty stuff out.
If you clean the old caulk and apply a thin layer of good quality siliconized painters caulk it works great. It only takes a very thin layer and it solves the adherence problem. thanks again
Michael Fahey the handyman
Columbus IN
Michael:
Thanks for the tip!
Your comment reminds me of a common "indicator" problem, i.e. a visible problem the is a good indicator for similar hidden problems in other areas of a construction.
Messy caulking, the use of more than one caulking product, and the use of the wrong caulking product (e.g. tub caulking used on siding) are often good predictors of other problems in the construction. For example:
Caulk
Bottom Line
Use GE Silicone II if it's in the tub or shower, or if it doesn't need to be painted.
Use DAP DYNAFLEX 230 if it has to be painted. The general issues in selecting a caulk are:
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Silicone or urethane usually performs best overall. It lasts longest and holds up best, but is harder to apply (can make a real mess) and isn't paintable. Silicone "Tub and Tile" caulk has a mildewcide -- use in areas that get wet, but don't use it in area where it will contact food or drinking water. There are other versions without the mildewcide for these applications. [A possible exception to silicone being the best caulk is
urethane caulk which may be as good and is paintable. See discussion below.]
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢
Elastomeric latex sealant (caulk) comes next in durability and is paintable.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Latex, silicone/latex (siliconized) and acrylic is next, but there's a lot of variation in quality within and between brands.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Latex is easiest to apply and cleanup.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Butyl rubber is dead last.
Silicone is essential to seal around bathtubs, showers, lavatories, etc. There's a special bathroom formulation for this that has a mildewcide. This poison has been known to be hazardous if used inside dishwashers because the high heat outgasses the poison onto the dishes and is then eaten.
THAT well known consumer product rating magazine last rated caulk in 1993. Here's what their tests showed then:
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ You can't judge anything by brand. Every brand had caulks that scored throughout the range from good to bad.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ The best silicone caulks were GE Silicone II and Ace 50 Year Silicone, with Red Devil 100% Silicone next. GE Silicone II comes in 2 types -- one with mildewside for 'Kitchen & Bath' and one for 'Windows & Doors'
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢
DAP DYNAFLEX 230 previously called Formula '230' is the best latex. It's an elastomeric latex sealant. It's more expensive but, it's better than all silicone/latex caulks and better than some pure silicones. I use this caulk where silicone isn't appropriate . It shrinks a lot. I recommend you don't use the clear version unless you have to. The clear has an additive to make it go on white so it's easy to see if you're covering cracks. It turns clear as it cures. This causes it to shrink a WHOLE LOT and it can't be painted for a week! The regular colors shrink less and can be painted in a couple of hours.
Some people on alt.home.repair swear by a caulk named Polyseamseal adhesive/sealent (another elastomeric) They're particularly high on this version for caulking tub/showers.. Unfortunately it wasn't rated, and I've never seen this product on store shelves.
Urethane Caulk
Polyurethane caulk is growing in popularity. NP 1 by Sonneborn has won high praise from Texas A&M for durability, and it's paintable. But, it's harder to apply neatly than latex and, clean up requires solvents. Other names of urethane caulks are PL200 or Vulkem, GE makes one, and recently I saw an expensive ($8) tube of urethane from 3M on the caulk shelf at Home Despot.
On Thu, 26 Sep 2002 "Bruce Brocka" <brucebrocka@yahoo.com> wrote:
I was reading your section on caulks. I have used everything and the best caulk by an order of magnitude is the NP-1 series by Sonneborn. It comes in numerous colors. It is wonderful, and can be painted or left alone. . . . NP1 was developed as a masonry caulk
Notes: 1) I've found NP 1 difficult to gun (hard to push out of the tube). 2) It takes a long time to cure (dry). Expect to wait two to three days before painting. (I now see the instructions say to wait until it is fully cured, which they say will take a week) 3) Sonneborn limits distribution of NP1 to outlets that normally sell to the construction trade, such as roofing supplies, real lumber yards, etc., saying it's not for use by the ordinary consumer. I get it at a local roofing supply company.
For all this trouble I sure hope it's good -- jim
Tips
Tip1: Cold caulk can get stiff and hard to squeeze out of the tube. If it's cold, put the tube it in a pan of warm water for 20 minutes or so.
Tips2: Here are some ways to reseal partially used caulk tubes.
In the past I used a large nail stuck into the tip. This works good for keeping the tip clear, but the nail sometimes rusts causing you to have to pump out a lot of caulk to get rid of the rust.
Right now I'm using a large wirenut (used to connect electric wiring) to cap the tip if I'll be using it again within a month. The gray wirenuts are about the right size. For longer term storage I use a piece of plastic (Saran Wrap or plastic bag type) over the tip, held in place with masking tape or a rubber band. Squirt a little caulk into this sock covering the tip -- it will harden first, helping seal the caulk in the tube. Some people use a piece of duck tape instead of the plastic wrap but it doesn't seem like it would be airtight enough.
Alonso Llano <alonso.llano@juno.com> writes:
"I use a screw to seal my tubes of caulking, it's very inexpensive (actually free) and works all the time." NOTE: You may want to use a rust proof screw. Some folks use pliers to pull the screw out, claiming this pulls any hardened caulk out with it. -- jim
These Little Red Caps sound like a clever way to reseal tubes of caulk, but I've never used them. If you've used one on a tube that remained unused for as much as 3 months, please let me know whether it kept the caulk nozzle from clogging. If you're going to store it for more than a week I'd squirt a daub of caulk into the rubber sock.
Some people say they have good luck with DAP Caps. I've never used one, but they seem to be a cap for open tubes as well as a caulk troweling tool. I've use my finger for troweling and have never had good luck using a tool to trowel caulk, but I've seen TV handymen suggest using them so others must have a different experience with them than I have.
Recaulking a Shower or, a Tub-Tile Joint -- Getting a good seal is harder than you think.
Here's an article on caulking your home for energy saving.
Caulk
Bottom Line
Use GE Silicone II if it's in the tub or shower, or if it doesn't need to be painted.
Use DAP DYNAFLEX 230 if it has to be painted.
The general issues in selecting a caulk are:
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Silicone or urethane usually performs best overall. It lasts longest and holds up best, but is harder to apply (can make a real mess) and isn't paintable. Silicone "Tub and Tile" caulk has a mildewcide -- use in areas that get wet, but don't use it in area where it will contact food or drinking water. There are other versions without the mildewcide for these applications. [A possible exception to silicone being the best caulk is urethane caulk which may be as good and is paintable. See discussion below.]
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Elastomeric latex sealant (caulk) comes next in durability and is paintable.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Latex, silicone/latex (siliconized) and acrylic is next, but there's a lot of variation in quality within and between brands.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Latex is easiest to apply and cleanup.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ Butyl rubber is dead last.
Silicone is essential to seal around bathtubs, showers, lavatories, etc. There's a special bathroom formulation for this that has a mildewcide. This poison has been known to be hazardous if used inside dishwashers because the high heat outgasses the poison onto the dishes and is then eaten.
Note: If silicone does not cure it makes a godawful mess. Most manufacturers specify a shelf life of 1-year from date of manufacturer for silicone caulk in unopened tubes. I've not seen times for partially used tubes. Silicone will last longer than a year, but if it's old you must test it to see if it is going to cure. Silicone does not air dry, it has a curing agent. If a sample placed on a non-porous surface does not cure in 24 hours don't use it.
THAT well known consumer product rating magazine last rated caulk in 1993. Here's what their tests showed then:
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ You can't judge anything by brand. Every brand had caulks that scored throughout the range from good to bad.
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ The best silicone caulks were GE Silicone II and Ace 50 Year Silicone, with Red Devil 100% Silicone next. GE Silicone II comes in 2 types -- one with mildewside for 'Kitchen & Bath' and one for 'Windows & Doors'
íƒÆ’í‚¢íƒÂ¢í¢â‚¬Å¡í‚¬íƒâ€ší‚¢ DAP DYNAFLEX 230 previously called Formula '230' is the best latex. It's an elastomeric latex sealant. It's more expensive but, it's better than all silicone/latex caulks and better than some pure silicones. I use this caulk where silicone isn't appropriate . It shrinks a lot. I recommend you don't use the clear version unless you have to. The clear has an additive to make it go on white so it's easy to see if you're covering cracks. It turns clear as it cures. This causes it to shrink a WHOLE LOT and it can't be painted for a week! The regular colors shrink less and can be painted in a couple of hours.
The 2 worst other than butyl caulks were:
.....Ace 25 Year Siliconized
.. ...Seamseal Plus Silicon/Latex
Remember, you just can't judge by brand--two of the top rated and two of the worst rated caulks are from the same brands--Ace and DAP?
Some people on alt.home.repair swear by a caulk named Polyseamseal adhesive/sealent (another elastomeric) They're particularly high on this version for caulking tub/showers.. Unfortunately it wasn't rated, and I've never seen this product on store shelves.
Urethane Caulk
Polyurethane caulk is growing in popularity. NP 1 by Sonneborn has won high praise from Texas A&M for durability, and it's paintable. But, it's harder to apply neatly than latex and, clean up requires solvents. Other names of urethane caulks are PL200 or Vulkem, GE makes one, and recently I saw an expensive ($8) tube of urethane from 3M on the caulk shelf at Home Despot.
On Thu, 26 Sep 2002 "Bruce Brocka" <brucebrocka@yahoo.com> wrote:
I was reading your section on caulks. I have used everything and the best caulk by an order of magnitude is the NP-1 series by Sonneborn. It comes in numerous colors. It is wonderful, and can be painted or left alone. . . . NP1 was developed as a masonry caulk
Notes: 1) I've found NP 1 difficult to gun (hard to push out of the tube). 2) It takes a long time to cure (dry). Expect to wait two to three days before painting. (I now see the instructions say to wait until it is fully cured, which they say will take a week) 3) Sonneborn limits distribution of NP1 to outlets that normally sell to the construction trade, such as roofing supplies, real lumber yards, etc., saying it's not for use by the ordinary consumer. I get it at a local roofing supply company.
For all this trouble I sure hope it's good -- jim
Tips
Tip1: Cold caulk can get stiff and hard to squeeze out of the tube. If it's cold, put the tube it in a pan of warm water for 20 minutes or so.
Tips2: Here are some ways to reseal partially used caulk tubes.
In the past I used a large nail stuck into the tip. This works good for keeping the tip clear, but the nail sometimes rusts causing you to have to pump out a lot of caulk to get rid of the rust.
Right now I'm using a large wirenut (used to connect electric wiring) to cap the tip if I'll be using it again within a month. The gray wirenuts are about the right size. For longer term storage I use a piece of plastic (Saran Wrap or plastic bag type) over the tip, held in place with masking tape or a rubber band. Squirt a little caulk into this sock covering the tip -- it will harden first, helping seal the caulk in the tube. Some people use a piece of duck tape instead of the plastic wrap but it doesn't seem like it would be airtight enough.
Alonso Llano <alonso.llano@juno.com> writes:
"I use a screw to seal my tubes of caulking, it's very inexpensive (actually free) and works all the time." NOTE: You may want to use a rust proof screw. Some folks use pliers to pull the screw out, claiming this pulls any hardened caulk out with it. -- jim
These Little Red Caps sound like a clever way to reseal tubes of caulk, but I've never used them. If you've used one on a tube that remained unused for as much as 3 months, please let me know whether it kept the caulk nozzle from clogging. If you're going to store it for more than a week I'd squirt a daub of caulk into the rubber sock.
Some people say they have good luck with DAP Caps. I've never used one, but they seem to be a cap for open tubes as well as a caulk troweling tool. I've use my finger for troweling and have never had good luck using a tool to trowel caulk, but I've seen TV handymen suggest using them so others must have a different experience with them than I have.
Recaulking a Shower or, a Tub-Tile Joint -- Getting a good seal is harder than you think.
Here's an article on caulking your home for energy saving.
